Before you can play Kōnane you have to set up the Pāpamu. In each hole you have to fill it with `ili`ili or pebbles. You alternate with white, black, pebbles until all of the holes are filled. In modern day Kōnane, no same colored `ili`ili should be sitting next to each other. To set up the Pāpamu takes an understanding of the game and of life, for we all play Kōnane whether we know it or not.
My anticipation in searching for the Pāpamu of the Kona coast was quite exciting. There are only a few places in the islands where there is such of an array of options to find Pāpamu in such a defined area. It could be the youth of the island that makes it possible.
They are spread across the west side of Hawaii Island. In just a few short hours I was able to take pictures of some of the popular ones and learn a whole lot more.
The Pāpamu is the base for playing Kōnane. Etched in stone many can still be found scattered all around the Hawaiian Islands although rare. As Hawaiian society started to crumble, I believe that many Pāpamu that were in land were destroyed either by the plantations making room for crops or as a victims of construction projects for development.
There were also Pāpamu made of wood. Some of these artifacts can be found at the Bishop Museum.
My big question, before coming to Kona was, are the Pāpamu aligned? I believe that the Ancient Hawaiians aligned the Pāpamu in some way and for some reason as part of protocol.
I was met at The La`aloa Beach Park by Edward Dowling who is a key Kōnane player on the Kona Coast. He is a cultural resource in the art form of Kōnane and he teaches Kōnane at the Keauhou Beach Resort/Outrigger on Wednesday's to anyone wanting to learn.
Ed has studied Pāpamu along the coastline of Kona for years and knows where many are located. Ed use to live on Kauai where I met him along the Wailua River and we played a game of Kōnane. We were able to keep in contact and when the opportunity came for me to visit Kona, I made contact.
At La`aloa Ed showed me a Pāpamu shaped in the form of a honu. It is in magical spot just feet away from the rolling surf.
This Pāpamu is a 10 x 10 configuration. The holes are about two inches in diameter and well defined. It sits upon other pōhaku. But sadly in time, the surf will take this Pāpamu away.
Without the proper equipment, it would be hard for me to take measurements to start the process of matching alignment, but it is a good feeling to meet these fine Pāpamu.
Ed took me to the Keauhou Beach Resort/Outrigger to show me where he teaches Kōnane. This is a magical place as massive restoration of coastal heiau is being done. The blackness of the Pōhaku in the blinding sun of Kona make deep slicing shadows that demand attention.
We played a few games of Kōnane and talked about future Kōnane. The hardest part of playing Kōnane is finding Kōnane players. Both Ed and I have companies that sell Kōnane boards and teach Kōnane. We both know that the future of Kōnane, lies in our ability to attract more players.
Honokohau is a National Park that has a documented Pāpamu as one of its attractions (7) along their boardwalk. This Pāpamu has a 12 x 12 configuration. Because this Pāpamu was created on lava flow and is not in a position to move by nature, these are the types of Pāpamu that would make the best specimens for my alignment theory. This is a petroglyph field that is a protected area. There is talk that there are many more Pāpamu in the area.
Ed and I looked for Pāpamu along the coastline. He was told by Kupuna that there were Pāpamu just in the front of the bathrooms, so we searched. It felt good walking along upon the Pāhoehoe during low tide. The little honu looking trapped in little tide pools munching seaweed. I asked the honu where were the Pāpamu? I got no answer? But then again, did I deserve an answer. We found two examples of what could have been Pāpamu. Once again they were a few yards away for the surf. They were poorly defined. It was hardly noticeable and easily missed. Why?
In fact that's what I heard a lot. Pāpamu are scatted along the coast, but if they are so close the shore line where they used for playing Konane as a game or for something else?
At the city of refuge at Kealakakua Bay, I spoke with the carver named Charlie who was carving Ki`i to replace the ones currently at the park.
We talked about wood and trees and Pāpamu. He also said that there were Pāpamu along the coast line. Many are under water during the high tide. My timing was wrong at this time of the day, so I will not get to see any of these. The park has two that I found. They have a replica of one displayed and another I found along the trail. I also walked along the Pāhoehoe to find Pāpamu. But none was under water that I could see and the day was dying so it was time for me to head back to Kailua.
I came to Kona to start to answer my question about alignment and I'm going home with a bigger question. Why so close to the shoreline? Charlie said that either the island is sinking or the water is rising and that's why the Pāpamu are under water. This is true, but then again, why would the Ancient Hawaiian who was so akamai about their environment create Pāpamu so close to the shoreline knowing that it would be covered up during the high tide? If the water is rising, as we all know it is, the Ancient Hawaiian would have known that too. Why are the holes so shallow? They are almost too shallow for playing. It is as if someone had to create a Pāpamu before the tide came in.
Ed told me that Pāpamu was used as a teaching tool for constellations, navigation, and could be used as an abacus. Which could be true, and why not? All of these use some form of mathematics and being a verbal culture without the use of writing. It makes some sense to me.
Could Pāpamu so close to the shore be a final test for a student to finish the Pāpamu before the tide comes in?
I don't know, but what I do know is that the Pāpamu is more than a platform to play Kōnane. It is a puzzle and another hole to fill before we start the game.
On my eight by eight Kōnane board there are sixty four holes. Before we can play, we must set up the board by filling the holes with `ili `ili. Thirty two white and thirty two black pebbles. It may take years to find the answers to the mystery of the Pāpamu.
The more people play the closer we will come to understanding the why. I believe as more people play and share what they know, and then the answers can roll in like the tide. But the waters are rising, so we must make use of the time we have left.
Before you can play Kōnane you have to set up the Pāpamu, and this will take time. Remember we all playing Kōnane whether we know it or not. The question is…..are you winning or losing.
